Shark Sauce Part 1: The Recipe

I'm sure a lot of you have been anticipating this more than the Vita-Sea recipe, much in part due to Fiddy's raves about it on her SNS.  It's finally here!  This is seriously my favorite skincare product, hands down, ever.  It is amazingly good, y'all.

Note:  This recipe took a lot of time, money, and work to develop.  Please be respectful and do not redistribute this (especially without credit).  This is meant for personal use only, not for commercial or profit.  It is provided for free, so please show some consideration or I will not be able to provide future recipes.

When I first started getting into DIY, I lurked in a bunch of DIY communities, to see the general attitude of people and quality of ingredients/finalized products.  I found a recipe for a DIY NiaNag Toner and knew I had to make it.  Except I had also ordered a bunch of other things that I realized later wouldn't benefit much from being in my Vita-Sea, so they gradually just made their way into my NiaNag toner.  Before I realized it, this thing was chocked so full of goodness, it might as well have included Unicorn Extract.

Mmm, freshly made essence.... Round 2 for my Niacinamide+ essence, with some modifications. Ingredients: 2% Allantoin Water, Aloe Vera Juice, Sea Kelp Bioferment, 1% Hyaluronic Acid Stock, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, Licorice Root Extract, Goji Berry Extract, Ceramide Complex, Panthenol, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Green Tea Extract, Optiphen. pH didn't need any adjustment. Dropped Glycerin and Vitamin E, because I didn't want to have to add an emulsifier, reduced the preservative as the smell was a bit too strong, and bumped up the concentration on some of the ingredients. Still need to work on that evil allantoin. It's much more of a gel consistency this time vs watery last time. Last batch erased my old PIH in a matter of days. Very excited to see how this goes! #bbloggers #rasianbeauty #diy #diybeauty #skincare
A photo posted by ๐Ÿ‘ฉ Chel (@holysnailsblog) on

Ingredients:  2% Allantoin Water, Aloe Vera Juice, Sea Kelp Bioferment, 1% Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, Licorice Root Extract, Goji Berry Extract, Ceramide Complex, Panthenol, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Green Tea Extract, Optiphen.  Basically, every ingredient is a notable ingredient.

I dubbed it Niacinamide+ Essence at the time, and oh man, it worked amazingly. If you've been following my blog, you'll remember the Skincare Diary update I did a while back, talking about the dramatic results I've had in just a week of using the product.

ONE WEEK!  (This was taken back in March, I think)
It's especially dramatic if you look along my jawline at all the old brown spots from acne, and behind my cheekbone where I get some crazy blackheads and get too eager stress-picking them.  Anyway, months later, I'm out and need to make a new batch.  I shuffled the ingredients around a little more, and then after a late night conversation with Fiddy about something other than donuts and cupcakes, Shark Sauce was born!

Apparently, there is a Shark brand Sriracha sauce.  Amazon.
Actually, wouldn't it be awesome if I could sell this and package it in tiny little bottles like this?  That'd be some Skincaretainment right there!  Anyway, here's the recipe:


Ingredient % (g)
Niacinamide 5 1.42
N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2.5 0.71
Ceramide Complex 5 1.42
Licorice Root Extract 5 1.42
Green Tea Extract 5 1.42
Aloe Vera Juice 11 3.12
Panthenol 2.5 0.71
Optiphen 1 0.28
1% Hyaluronic Acid 5 1.42
Sodium Lactate 5 1.42
Sea Kelp Bioferment 25 7.09
Seamollient 10 2.83
Sea Buckthorn Oil 3 0.85
Polysorbate 80 9 2.55
Borage Seed Oil 5 1.42
Tocopherol 1 0.28

If you want to attempt this recipe, just remember that most of these things can be substituted or have their quantities modified easily.  The amount listed here is for a 1 oz/30 ml bottle, and can easily be scaled up or down using a batch size calculator.

Let's Talk Ingredients...

Niacinamide:  This superstar ingredient does almost everything.  Also known as Vitamin B3, it helps collagen production, brightens, lightens pigmentation, helps against TEWL, helps against acne, and just....  I'm sure it'd do your taxes too, if you asked it nicely.  It needs at least 2% to start seeing effects, and has increasingly beneficial effects up to 5%.  (Your skin can't absorb after that.)

N-Acetyl Glucosamine:  This is used at 2.5%, and works in synergy with niacinamide.  What is synergy?  It means they work better together than just used separately.  In fact, I believe it's the addition of this that helps the niacinamide work so quickly and effectively, seeing results in just a freaking week.

Ceramides:  Mmm, how trendy are ceramides right now?  Unfortunately, unless it's in a good ratio, you might just end up with a fancy occlusive, as they can't penetrate otherwise.  DIY to the rescue!  I used this at 5%, but decreased to 3% here, because I was running low....oops.

Sea Kelp Bioferment:  This is kelp that's been fermented with Lactobacillus, which breaks down the tissue to increase the bioavailability of the compounds.  It also has a really awesome consistency that's great for thickening a solution.  You could actually use this straight on your face, but I like to just add it to my formulations.  You know that fancy La Mer cream?  This is the active ingredient, right here.

Honestly, every single thing in here is here because it's amazing.  So every ingredient is notable, but I don't want this to run for too long.  Part 2 with the tutorial coming tomorrow, and stay tuned for a giveaway so you can have your own Shark Sauce!


  1. แƒš(ส˜̆〰ส˜̆)แƒš I would buy this!

  2. I love it so much. I'm making my hubby a cream version of this! XD

  3. 50 Shades Of SnailJuly 16, 2015 at 1:21 AM

    I have nothing to add except that I love my Shark Sauce and I never want to be without it.

  4. Fiddy luuuhhh dat Shark Sawce! <3

  5. Now I really want that shark sauce!

  6. Thanks for sharing this! I've never done a DIY nor really been interested, but this has really sparked my interest! ^^ Really looking forward to the tutorial for how to do this. Are the ingredients hard get?

  7. wow - really impressive :)

    Your skin care app -

  8. The ingredients are incredibly easy to get - I use and for my DIY materials, but I think you could get everything you needed from just LotionCrafter. :)

  9. Awesome! I just checked out all the ingredients on LotionCrafter, and have a few questions, if you don't mind my asking!:

    1. Is Panthenol the one called "dl-Panthenol"?

    2. There are a few different options for Hyaluronic Acid - ULMW, SLMW, LMW, and the plain one - Which to use use?

    3. There seemed to be two different option for Tocopherols - "Vitamin E, Mixed Tocopherols T50" and "Vitamin E, Mixed Tocopherols 95%" - What's the correct one?

    4. Seamollient doesn't seem to be on either site.. does it go by a different name?


  10. Yikes, sorry! I guess I should've been more specific on the names!

    1. Yes, it's dl-Panthenol
    2. I use the plain Hyaluronic Acid. I don't like the other ones. :|
    3. I use the Mixed Tocopherols 95%
    4. Sorry, it's on SEA only, it seems, and she calls it Sea Emollient. Here's the link: It is NOT essential, so if you want to just use LC, you could just get your SKB from there. :)

  11. So, do you mean that the Sea Kelp Bioferment can replace the Sea Emollient in the recipe?

    Thanks for the clarification :)
    Now I just need to somehow rationalize spending $50.00 on shipping to Europe! hahaa.. I guess the ingredients last a pretty long time to make several batches?

  12. Yes, you can absolutely substite the Seamollient portion for all SKB instead. OMG though that shipping... I think there are definitely raw cosmetics suppliers in Europe.... Check this list: The ingredients definitely last a long time, as a 30 ml bottle will usually last around 3 months for just face/neck area, but I don't know about paying $50 for shipping! :O

  13. Yea, I checked some European suppliers but none had close to everything. :/ So I guess I might do some more checking around..

    But then again considering it seems I can get enough ingredients from LotionCrafters to make several batches, it may be worth the price in the long run.

    But do the raw ingredients themselves have a long shelf-life?

  14. A lot of them have a good shelf-life (they will state in the description), but some definitely don't. The Ceramides Complex on LotionCrafter for example only has a shelf life of 6 months, and that's WITH refrigeration. :|

  15. Jasper van der SteenJuly 17, 2015 at 4:44 PM

    This looks amazing! Where did you buy all the ingredients :)?

  16. Love that recipe:

    1) Very quickly TL;DR ELI5, What's the difference between SKB and seamolient?

    2) How does polysorbate 80 behave at 9% concentration? Seems a little high for a leave-on product, IMO.

  17. Hey there! This sounds silly, but basically the difference is one is fermented and the other isn't... This does affect the texture and consistency, as well as the content though, as fermenting breaks down the ingredients and making them more readily absorb....-able. SKB tends to impart a bit of a sticky feel, whereas seamollient isn't as sticky. Poly 80 at 9% definitely makes the mix cloudy. I think if you used a different emulsifier, you can use less, or even have a clear serum, but this is the only one I bought, and the best ratio for it is 1:1 with the rest of the oils, or it tends to separate the oil phase from the water phase. That's just how it works for me though, and you might have better luck with a lower ratio or different emulsifier. Let me know though!

  18. May I ask your opinion on the differences between this Niacinamide+ essence vs the shark ease of producing, efficacy and texture?

  19. Hi, please could you advise as to substituting sodium locate powder for liquid. Can't find it in powder form here in the uk! Thanks

  20. Hi, nearly got all my ingredients together. Here in the UK sodium locate powder is nigh on impossible to find. I have the liquid. Should i use it as the same% as the power? Many thanks